Santiago de Atitlan is known for its worship of a cigar-smoking, liquor-swilling god of the local Tzotojil Mayans. But I was here to see Jesus Christ. It was Good Friday of Semana Santa, Easter week.

In central Gautemala, Lake Atitlan sits in an ancient caldera and is the highest lake in Central America. Reflecting three volcanic peaks, the deep waters preserve traditions that even 500 years of change couldn’t eradicate.