Madrid, Barcelona, Salamanca…these are the cities that most think of when they think of Spain. My own personal journey there was, although narrow in scope, much more intimate in its interaction with the country and its people. I spent over a month in the north part of Spain in the province of Cantabria, in the city of Santander. A small city whose population only just barely exceeds 10,000 during the peak of its tourist season in August, Santander is situated in a bay that borders the Cantabrian sea that separates Spain’s peninsula from continental Europe to the north. It is surrounded by five beaches, features a golf course, and, although its history as a fishing community is about the only real historical sightseeing that Santander itself offers, it is a convenient base for visiting nearby places in Galicia and Asturias, as well as the Basque country, one of the most interesting locations in all of Spain.

I flew into Madrid late on a Saturday evening and got somewhat lost in the subway system, but finally made it to the Atocha train station in the northern part of Madrid where I was planning on catching a train to Santander. As it turned out, the soonest train left Atocha at 10pm and traveled overnight to Santander, arriving the next morning at 7am. With no other options, I decided that it would probably be fun to take an overnight train, so I booked a seat, and then found a place to wait and people watch for a couple hours till the train left.

Once settled in on the train, I tried to nap for a bit, but mostly I just watched the dark Spanish countryside pass out my window. The train was fairly empty, so I was able to rotate the seats in front of me forming a set of four seats facing each other and put my feet up. Sleep came in spurts and although we seemed to stop at every tiny station in the couple hundred miles between Madrid and Santander, when I arrived at my destination it was like I’d just left the capital.

From the train station in Santander I had to get my bearings, and then took a cab from the taxi rank directly outside the station up to my flat that I’d rented for the month. Santander is shaped basically like a large croissant. It curves around the bay, and has an elevated ridge of hills that runs through the center; the town slopes up from the ocean, and then slopes down again to the surrounding countryside. I had rented accommodation on the hillside on the north-western part of the city, and it only cost me about six Euro to take a cab there. After picking up my key from the landlord and getting settled, I walked downhill and began to explore.

If you visit Santander, the most happening places are downtown, and are completely unique to this area of Spain. Two major plazas in the downtown called Plaza Canadillo and Plaza del Casino are the meeting places for nearly everyone in the city around 11pm-12am. By the time 12:30 hits, both plazas are completely full of people of every age group socializing and generally enjoying themselves. It is much different than a typical evening in any city I’ve been too, adults are so trusting with their children that they let them stay out with them till 1:00 am!

If you are looking for someplace to meet new people and get a taste of Spanish culture, then the Plaza Canadillo should be your first evening destination. But don’t show up there before ten o’clock, as no one in Spain has even eaten dinner before then. Also, along the same lines, don’t try to make a dinner reservation any time before 9pm. Most restaurants kitchens are closed until then, and you’ll be eating in an empty restaurant if you go any time before eight or nine.

As for transportation around Santander, the city’s entire length is walkable in about twenty minutes, so you needn’t worry about getting where you want to go, but if your feet get tired, then head to one of the Estancos (tobacco/news stand) and pick up a pack of ten bus tickets for 5.50 Euro. There are 14 bus lines that are numbered and color coded, and can get you around the city in no time at all. Of course, since the cab service is subsidized by the city and well metered, taking a cab is also an affordable option if you are in a hurry. There are many things to see in and around Santander, but one of the best, especially for those who enjoy beaches is to take a water taxi across the bay to Soma, a beach that is essentially just a gigantic sandbar that is secluded and pristine, complete with a broken bridge half submerged from back in the days of Roman occupation.

Getting out of Santander is easy – there is a bus terminal and a train station that serves both RENFE (the national Spanish rail system) and FEVE (the local, northern rail system). Some suggestions of places in Spain to visit include San Sebastian in the nearby Basque country, and Bilbao, where the Guggenheim museum houses some of the most progressive art in the world. Also, Los Picos de Europa, a range of tall, sharp, tooth like peaks just west of Santander in Austurias are worth a visit.

Either way, when you visit Santander, don’t miss out on the restaurant, La Gaviota. They boast absolutely the best seafood in all of Spain in my opinion. Also, the price won’t break your bank. Try the bonito, and baked sardines. If you are adventurous, try the octopus, which is some of the best I’ve ever had. The restaurant is located just by the bay, and all the seafood they serve is brought in fresh each day, meaning that you are literally eating something that was caught just hours before it was prepared for you.

There are places that are more historically and culturally rich than Santander, but the community feeling was the best I’ve seen anywhere in the country. Also, the friendliness of the locals and the variety of sporting activities in the area should attract anyone who loves the outdoors. If you are planning a trip to Spain, do not miss this cultural capital of the north.